aqui estoy, back in galicia. you know, as a child, two fried eggs, a spoonful of rice and some ketchup was the dinner fare in our modest lodging here. now, it is a slight alteration: a cup of gazpacho, a soft boiled egg, and bread for dipping. then, cherries and saturn peaches, my favorites here.
my mom and i did part of the camino de santiago (from la coruna, to santiago de compostela). 48 miles in three days, walking. the first day we got lost about 7 times in the heat, hadn’t timed our walking right. but we stopped at noon at the only house we saw in the valley. there, an old woman barked at us in gallego, but in an affectionate excited way like german shepards do when they want to be pet. not that this lady was at all like a german shepard, she was generous and smiling, with short white hair. she gave us icecream cones that we felt obliged to eat then and there and offered us her backyard to nap in, which we did. the second day we also met more village people, or indigenous galicians, as i think of them. farm women and men in overalls with roosters and kittens and cows and sows. the third day we trecked through forest and corn fields almost exclusively. we were thoughtful and i was glad i had good hiking boots. we didn’t come across anyone that day.
this week has been one of the best summer weeks of my life. 3 bbq’s in a row; chorizo and sausages in all of them, one bbq involved a drift wood bonfire on the beach, another involved gin and tonics and british accents, and the third had a guest appearance from a wild boar, tethered to a fence. i have been swimming a lot, a salt crust on my back like how the mediterraneans cook their fish and chickens. but we aren’t mediterranean here in vivero, we are more celtic. tan, but celtic. every night the fog rolls in and the gulls argue and i wish i could spit cherries out into the sea, but they just plop out the window, probably startling people on the sidewalk below.