In the midmorning we stopped in this little town and everyone was getting out of mass. We went into the Dominican church there and these women were selling tamales and atole on the steps of the entrance. The tamales were of pollo con mole, and they were somehow both light, with a lovely fluffy corn texture, while still being rich and full of flavor. that was the best mid-morning snack I’ve ever had. Then we drank bowls of atole de panela, a sweetish corn drink, like corn porridge meets horchata, while sitting on the grass. hearty, warming the soul, colorful streamers hanging from church top to trees.
(eunice adorno, menonites in northern mexico)
I like seeing all the peluquerías and barbershops, where all sorts of things are being done, aside from cutting hair. Watching the soccer game and the telenovela predominate, but there’s also petting dogs, braiding hair, putting on makeup, gossiping, flirting. The walls are papered with photos of gelled haircuts.
In Huatla de Jimenez, magical mushrooms are part of the ancient culture. “Child saints,” or “holy children,” guide the hallucinations. This is what Maria Sabina, one of the ancient and most well known shaman women would chant in her guiding trance:
Because I can swim in the immense
Because I can swim in all forms
Because I am the launch woman
Because I am the sacred opposum
Because I am the Lord opposum
(someone told me a couple days that the reason frida was an innovative woman was because she married a fat, abusive [albeit artistic] asshole. why is that a point of admiration?)
I went to the Abastos market…I saw that it took up a bit splotch on the map, but I wasn’t expecting the maze of everything. There really was every object under the sun and the sounds were deafening, if deafening had positive connotations. There were turkeys and caged puppies, mangos, jicama, snakes, knifes and dining tables, woven baskets, lingerie, walls of pirated DVDs, pottery, barrels of cocoa beans, ground up with almonds and chile, towers of papaya and leaning pisa’s of queso oaxaqueño, curtains of tripe. There were babies everywhere and the constant sing song of prices being listed. Tomatillos, avocados. I bought a bagful of things for 40 cents